Bespoke Vs. Made-to-Measure

Understanding The Difference

One of the most common questions we get is regarding the difference between made-to-measure and bespoke tailoring. While the differences are considerable, there are advantages to each so its worth understanding the distinctions.  Let’s start with some simple definitions.

Custom-made clothing refers to any garment specifically commissioned by a customer before it is made, in contrast to the more common ready-to-wear (RTW) clothing, which is pre-made and sold at retail. It’s important to note that ready-made clothing altered to fit a customer or customized with features like monogramming is not generally considered custom-made.

Custom-made clothing can be further divided into three main sub-categories: made-to-order (MTO), made-to-measure (MTM), and bespoke.

Made-to-order (MTO) refers to clothing that a customer commissions in a standard size (e.g., medium, size 4, or 40L). The customer typically selects the fabric or style they prefer and chooses the stock size that fits them best. They may also have the option to customize certain details, such as opting for pleated or flat-front pants or selecting the jacket lining.

The primary advantage of MTO over off-the-rack clothing is the broader range of sizes typically offered compared to ready-made options. Additionally, different fit preferences, such as regular or slim fit, may be available. In the case of suiting, customers can generally choose separate jacket and pant sizes, a flexibility not often provided with off-the-peg clothing. However, MTO differs from made-to-measure (MTM) and bespoke clothing in that the pattern used to create the garment is not adjusted to the customer’s specific measurements.

Made-to-measure (MTM) clothing offers you a tailored fit by adapting a pre-existing “block” pattern to your unique measurements, providing a superior fit compared to ready-made or made-to-order (MTO) garments. This customization takes your specific body shape into account, resulting in a garment that closely aligns with your proportions.

Thanks to advances in data analytics and statistical modeling, MTM tailoring has become even more refined, with algorithms that nearly rival bespoke garment fitting, especially for standard body types. This technology has made high-quality tailoring more accessible to you.

MTM garments also offer you a broader selection of fabrics and styling options compared to MTO, allowing for greater personalization. While some standardization is necessary for efficiency, you can still choose from a wide range of materials and design elements.

The use of advanced sewing equipment and modern production techniques reduces labor costs, giving MTM a significant price advantage over bespoke tailoring. Additionally, MTM requires fewer fittings and offers faster delivery times, making it an appealing choice if you’re seeking a personalized fit with efficient turnaround.

Bespoke tailoring offers the pinnacle of personalized clothing. When you opt for bespoke, every aspect is meticulously crafted for you, starting with a pattern that is designed from scratch based on your precise measurements and a thorough understanding of your body shape and posture.

Throughout the process, you’ll undergo multiple fittings, each one further refining the garment to ensure it fits you perfectly. This level of customization not only guarantees a flawless fit but also allows the garment to reflect your unique style and comfort preferences.

With bespoke, the possibilities for fabric, styling, and details are virtually limitless. You have the freedom to choose everything, from the material to the buttons, making the garment truly one-of-a-kind. The craftsmanship involved is exceptional, with skilled artisans hand-sewing each piece to the highest standards.

While this process is labor-intensive, requiring more time and investment, the end result is well worth it—a garment that fits impeccably and serves as a true expression of your individuality. For those seeking the ultimate in customization and quality, bespoke tailoring is the ideal choice.

Even in the realm of handmade suits, there’s an upper tier of craftsmanship. The term “benchmade” applies when a garment isn’t only handmade, but is handmade by a single tailor. Whereas many “handmade” suit purveyors construct their products in an assembly line process where the people making the component parts of the garments aren’t master tailors, true bespoke pieces such as those from Savile Row and Michael Andrews Bespoke come to life “on the bench” of one — and only one — master tailor. This approach ensures that each coat and trouser is a unified expression of a single artist.

It’s true that benchmade garments take longer to complete and can vary more from suit to suit than their assembly line counterparts, but this is a prime example of speed and uniformity not always being better (think fast food): each benchmade suit is a unique, individualized work of fine art. When you don a true bespoke piece, you do so with the knowledge that a singular artisan crafted your garment from start to finish — painstakingly measured to fit your frame, exactingly designed to meet your specifications, and expertly hand-sewn by a master tailor.

Some suits are made to measure. Bespoke suits are made to matter.